Colorado’s St. Walburga Abbey Offers Contemplative Retreats

Set in a valley in northern Colorado, St. Walburga Abbey welcomes visitors for spiritual or personal retreats. ©Laurel Kallenbach

Set in a valley in northern Colorado, St. Walburga Abbey welcomes visitors for spiritual or personal retreats. ©Laurel Kallenbach

A lifesize bronze statue of St. Walburga in a nun’s habit and long robes gazes serenely over the rocky hills and low pines near Virginia Dale, Colorado. Above the saint, a red hawk dips and dives in the air currents. In this serene Western landscape live 20-plus Benedictine sisters of the Abbey of St. Walburga,  a community devoted to God and the contemplative life.

The nuns observe choral worship seven times a day; maintain a small farm with llamas, bees, and grassfed beef cows; and make handmade cheeses. (And they do all this in full-length skirts and habits!)

The abbey's sanctuary ©Laurel Kallenbach

The abbey’s sanctuary ©Laurel Kallenbach

They also welcome not-particularly-religious people like me who are seeking a quiet place to retreat from the hubbub of life.

Located 35 miles north of Ft. Collins, Colorado, and 30 miles south of Laramie, Wyoming, St. Walburga Abbey is a tranquil spot for people to slip away from the cares of everyday life and retreat into solitude, contemplation, or prayer.

The beautiful, modern chapel and abbey building—created from eco-friendly, climate-efficient building materials—is a breath of fresh air. Here you can spend one to five days getting away from it all in a restorative environment.

And you don’t have to be Catholic. (In fact, I’m told the majority of retreatants are from other belief systems or simply want time to catch their breath in a beautiful setting.)

I’ve come several times to St. Walburga Abbey for writing retreats at the suggestion of writer friends. All of them have gotten their books published, so there must be divine inspiration at work!

Carrying a bottle of healing oil, St. Walburga welcomes visitors to the Abbey. ©Laurel Kallenbach

Carrying a bottle of healing oil, St. Walburga welcomes visitors. ©Laurel Kallenbach

At Home with a Saint

The statue of a serene-faced saint greets me as I drive up, and she sets a welcoming tone. In St. Walburga’s hand is an emblematic bottle of oil. At her burial crypt in Germany, it’s said that drops of oil flow from the saint’s relics, and this oil is used to heal the sick. I’m inclined to believe in this miracle; I know I start to feel better as soon as I arrive in this gorgeous landscape.

Having a set schedule—the same every day—is relaxing for me too. The nuns’ day is centered around the Divine Office—the seven periods of prayer and psalm-singing spaced throughout the day and night. I try to attend one daily, though I’ve never made it to the 4:50 a.m. Matins. There’s a pamphlet with the words that the sisters chant—and visitors can join in. (Just follow the sisters in standing and sitting down at various times. Don’t worry, the liturgy is mostly sung in English.)

I always give the singing/chanting my best shot, even though the pitch is a bit high for me and I’m not always sure when the notes change. But when at the Abbey, it’s nice to join in the culture. And it’s a perfect way for me to break up writing sessions. The words of a psalm sung at morning Lauds (held at a more doable 7:15 a.m.) inspired a scene in my novel.

There are beautiful tapestries to admire in the Abbey, both in and outside the sanctuary. If you are Catholic, you can enjoy a scenic walk around the Stations of the Cross—or you can simply meander the property or sit in the gardens and enjoy the view. In summer when the windows are open you can enjoy the chanting from the garden—or even from your cozy room.

A pastoral setting.  ©Laurel Kallenbach

The pastoral setting is perfect for contemplative walks in nature.  ©Laurel Kallenbach

The history is as fascinating as the place is beautiful. During the early years of the Nazi regime, the nuns of the original St. Walburga Abbey in Eichstätt, Germany (Bavaria), realized they were in danger of persecution, so the Abbess bought farm land on the outskirts of Boulder, Colorado, and quietly sent a few nuns to America to establish a new home for them in the event the rest of the order was forced to flee Germany. In the 1990s, the Abbey left Boulder for rural northern Colorado because the area around their farmland was developed and became surrounded by a busy commuter roads and a noisy highway. There, like me, they found peace.

Abbey Habits

On my visits to the Abbey—I usually go for two or three nights at a time—I feel myself exhale and slow down until I’m in step with this tranquil setting. I’m glad there’s no Internet; and I don’t even check my cell phone to see if there’s coverage. Instead, I chant, I write, I visit with other retreatants or a nun—if she’s got the time. (The sisters have much work to do every day, including cooking, cleaning, working in the gift shop, tending the livestock…and praying of course.)

The garden at the Abbey ©Laurel Kallenbach

The garden at the Abbey ©Laurel Kallenbach

On my most recent visit, the entire retreat center was full with a group of 18 doing a three-day silent retreat. So meals were completely nonverbal, which I enjoyed. On my first visit, the guests consisted of me and just one other woman who was a little too chatty. No worries, I simply pinned a badge on my sweater that stated I was keeping silence. That kept me in my own space instead of making small talk that distracted me from my writing or that crowded out my characters’ fictional voices in my head.

I’ll pass along a tip one of my friends shared with me the first time I went to the Abbey of St. Walburga: take snacks. The cafeteria-style meals are lovingly prepared, but basic and modest. There’s a refrigerator for retreatants, so you can easily store a few treats for between-meal munching. That said, the sisters make a huge effort to accommodate special dietary needs, and there are often homemade cookies for dessert!

Another thing: attire at the Abbey is casual, even though the sisters are wearing their Sunday best every day—except when they change into work clothes and aprons for chores. Because it’s outdoorsy, you need sturdy walking shoes. And you can wear jeans and a T-shirt into the church (but not shorts or sleeveless shirts).

The bell tower, St. Walburga Abbey ©Laurel Kallenbach

The bell tower, St. Walburga Abbey ©Laurel Kallenbach

Last but not least, there are bells. Every day, a sister walks to the bell tower wearing noise-reducing headphones for ear protection, and she begins to ring the bells. First, they peal just one at a time. Then the sister gets both going at once. The jubilant bells beckon to all who seek harmony as if saying: “Come to the life-affirming, serenity-inspired sanctuary that is the Abbey of St. Walburga.”

Who the retreats are for: People desiring peace and quiet and open air. The day begins and ends early. (You’re welcome to keep your own hours, of course, but you should respect the privacy and quiet of others both day and night.) There is no WiFi, and cell phone coverage is spotty, which is perfect if you’re serious about unplugging. Three meals a day are provided; the food tends to be simple. Rooms are comfy and modest with a twin-sized bed and private bathrooms. (There is also a handicapped-accessible room, and one with two beds to accommodate a married couple.) A minimum donation/offering of $65 per night is requested. Here’s more information on retreats (either organized through the Abbey or just personal retreats).

Laurel Kallenbach, freelance writer and editor

Watch the “Rancher Nuns” video about the St. Walburga nuns.

The sign on Highway 287. ©Laurel Kallenbach

The sign just off Highway 287 between Laramie and Ft. Collins. ©Laurel Kallenbach


Lions, Tigers, Bears Rest Easy at Colorado’s Wild Animal Sanctuary

Tigers are probably my favorite animal, and the ones at Colorado's Wild Animal Sanctuary were splendid! Two tigers ©Laurel Kallenbach

Tigers are my favorite animal, and the ones at Colorado’s Wild Animal Sanctuary were splendid! ©Laurel Kallenbach

The Wild Animal Sanctuary is not a zoo. Yet it’s a special place where people can watch and listen to exotic animals—especially big cats, wolves, and bears.

Located on the plains of northern Colorado near Keenesburg, the Sanctuary does not exist to entertain people. First and foremost, it’s a safe, caring home to wild animals who were raised and kept in captivity; most have been rescued from inhumane cages and enclosures or from abusive circuses and zoos or breeding farms around the world. Here, they roam on acres of Colorado grasslands.

This is probably the closest thing to “home”—a true resting place of peace—that these animals have ever had. For me, the Sanctuary was an opportunity to see them living in dignity—not performing tricks or jumping through hoops or pacing in a cage or suffering other horrors at the hands of human captors.

A pair of rescued grizzlies play at the Sanctuary. Photo courtesy WAS

A pair of rescued grizzlies play. Photo courtesy of the Wild Animal Sanctuary

My recent trip, as part of a volunteer group that helped plant trees in the Sanctuary, afforded me the chance to be close to some of the most majestic animals in the world. Human visitors are allowed to watch lions, wolves, foxes, bears, jaguars, tigers, and more from a system of elevated walkways and observation decks. The main reason humans have this opportunity is because large-animal predators don’t consider the sky to be part of their territory, so even though they can smell and see and hear us bipeds as we gawk at them from above, the animals don’t feel threatened.

The second reason humans have the privilege of viewing the animals is that the people who run the Wild Animal Sanctuary want to educate people about the exploitation of animals. As you wander along the walkways, signs describing the conditions from which the animals were rescued are a sad testament to human cruelty. A few animals have visible scars and disabilities from having been kept as exhibits, entertainment, or pets. I was appalled to learn that there are more captive tigers in the state of Texas than live in the wild worldwide.

Susan Preiss was among the group of volunteers  who planted trees. ©Laurel Kallenbach

Susan Preiss was among our group of volunteers who planted trees at the Sanctuary. ©Laurel Kallenbach

Our Day at the Sanctuary

My husband and I pitched in for a volunteer day at the Sanctuary with Boulder Media Woman, an organization I’m a member of. We met in our grubby work clothes and hats in north Boulder and carpooled to the Sanctuary about an hour northeast of us. Just driving into the Sanctuary, we spotted tigers and bears and ostriches.

We soon set to work digging up small tree saplings from a nursery area and then we replanted them along a road in the Sanctuary. After a few hours of hot, muddy work, it was time to see the animals.

We entered the main gates and began our stroll along a mile-long elevated walkway. To my amazement, we stood just 50 feet above free-range big cats and wolves. And although the animals certainly saw and heard us, they appeared to be unconcerned about our presence.

The elevated walkway at Wild Animal Sanctuary is a mile long. Photo courtesy TWAS

The elevated walkway at Wild Animal Sanctuary is a mile long. Photo courtesy WAS

Among the many things we learned during the day is that all animals are territorial. When strangers approach their territory, they react instinctively by either attacking in defense of their territory or by fleeing from intruders. Zoos and other facilities have fences or moats that prevent the animals from attacking visitors (aka territory intruders). Many zoos also close the doors to animals’ dens (where they would flee to safety from intruders) because the public gets upset when they can’t view the animals.

According to the Wild Animal Sanctuary, this situation of being caught between intrusive strangers on one side and restricted access from a safe den causes great stress on the animals, who begin to pace back and forth or display other unnatural and fearful behaviors. Luckily, the Sanctuary discovered that large carnivores (and many other animals) do not consider air or sky to be territory, so if people (“strangers”) are on elevated walkways, the animals do not consider them to be a threat.

Hope for the Animals

A lion rests in the shade at midday. ©Laurel Kallenbach

A lion rests in the shade at midday. ©Laurel Kallenbach

It could be easy to become depressed by the horror stories about animals in captivity, yet my trip to the Wild Animal Sanctuary was joyful. People laughed watching a grizzly cub playing with toys. We gasped in amazement as a pair of tigers ambled right beneath the walkway, then flopped down in its shade and took a nap. I will never forget gazing at the intricate patterns on one tiger’s stripes just 50 feet below me.

In another tiger house, where the big cats go for playtime in small pools during the heat of the days, two tigers roared at each other. We’ve all heard those roars in the movies, but standing so close to them while their roars caused earthquake-like tremors was both exhilarating and terrifying.

This tiger leapt and splashed in his pool, and he seemed so proud that I took dozens of photos of him. ©Laurel Kallenbach

This tiger leapt and splashed in his pool, and he seemed so proud that I took dozens of photos of him. ©Laurel Kallenbach

The Wild Animal Sanctuary is the oldest and largest nonprofit sanctuary in the United States that’s dedicated to rescuing captive exotic and endangered large carnivores.

At the 720-acre refuge, the animals are rehabilitated and then released into large-acreage natural habitats.

The Sanctuary shelters more than 400 lions, tigers, bears, leopards, mountain lions, wolves, and other large carnivores. The organization also educates visitors about the tragic plight faced by an estimated 30,000 captive animals in America today.

Supporting the Wild Animal Sanctuary

As you can imagine, it takes a lot of money and tireless devotion to keep the Sanctuary running. To encourage donations, the organization changed its policy in the summer of 2015. Instead of a low entrance fee that didn’t even begin to defray the cost of animal care and feeding, the Wild Animal Sanctuary now has a donation structure. An Active Supporter (someone who has donated at least $200 in the past 12 months) may visit the facility free of charge and can bring family and friends.

A wolf once kept in captivity as a pet is happy in her new home. Photo courtesy Wild Animal Sanctuary

A wolf once kept in captivity as a pet is happy in her new home. Photo courtesy Wild Animal Sanctuary

Visitors who aren’t Active Supporters are considered “Prospective Supporters,” and they enter the Sanctuary by making an evaluation donation of $50 per person. Of that amount, $30 covers the cost of the visit (for maintaining walkways, parking areas, staff/guides, restrooms, etc.) and $20 goes straight to the animals’ care.

The idea is that all visitors, after seeing how the Wild Animal Sanctuary makes a difference in animals’ lives, will go on to make substantial donations to the nonprofit. Even if you can’t volunteer for the Wild Animal Sanctuary like my group did, you can “adopt” an animal or bring donations (such as bags of dog food) when you visit. Check the refuge’s Wish List for other much-needed items.

Laurel Kallenbach, freelance writer and editor

Momo, the rescued camel. Photo courtesy The Wild Animal Sanctuary

Momo, the rescued camel. Photo courtesy Wild Animal Sanctuary

Cows on Parade: A Swiss Celebration

Stein is one of hundreds of Swiss villages that hold traditional dairy farming celebrations. ©Laurel Kallenbach

Throaty cowbells clang as flower-wreathed heifers parade through the streets of Stein, a tiny Swiss village in the Appenzell cheese-making region.

Dressed in traditional costumes, farm children and yodeling cowherds drive the cows toward the Viehschau (cattle show) judging area for the “Miss Stein” bovine beauty contest. There, the cows’ stature and coloring will be evaluated. It’s not just about pretty faces—honorable mention goes to cows with the best-looking udders and highest milk production.

On this late-September Tuesday morning, I’ve joined crowds of people jostling to watch the cows. Hundreds of people are clustered along the parade route. Stands sell toys and food; someone hawks balloons.

Appenzell cowherds carry traditional carved or painted wooden milk pails over their shoulders.

The streets in Stein, in the Appenzell canton of Switzerland, are festive on Cattle Show Day. ©Laurel Kallenbach

“Schools are closed today, and the whole town is here,” Antonia Brown Ulli, a tour guide, tells me. She lives in Stein and is wearing a dirndl dress for the occasion. “This is one of the village’s biggest annual festivals.”

Appenzell cowherds carry traditional wooden milk pails over their shoulders. ©Laurel Kallenbach

Indeed, the locals are impressively dressed, especially the men who are decked out in Appenzell finery consisting of red embroidered vest-jackets, fancy braces decorated with silver plates, black hats ringed with ribbons and flowers, and spoon-shaped earrings. Many also wear carry a wooden milking pail over one shoulder.

In the days of up-to-the-millisecond Swiss watches, I’m comforted that age-old cow herding traditions are still heartily celebrated by the entire community. And these cattle processions happen in rural villages all over Switzerland. (Germany and Austria too.)

In fact, the lead cows for each farm are adorned with bright flowers, ribbons, and fir branches on their heads. I’m giddy. As a cheese lover, I think it’s a grand idea to celebrate the cows (and goats too!) who provide milk for my favorite food.

Contestants for the Miss Stein title ©Laurel Kallenbach

The day before, I had visited the Appenzell Show Dairy, where visitors can see how the world-famous Appenzell cheese is made—and can taste it too! There’s a full restaurant on site.

The pageantry and music—bell-clanging and the yodel-like singing of the cowherds—is my farewell to Switzerland. An hour later, I’m zipping on the train to the Zurich airport. There, on the shuttle train to the international terminal, the piped-in sounds of mooing cows and cowbells makes me tear up. Even though I haven’t officially left the country, I’m already nostalgic for this scenic country.

Laurel Kallenbach, freelance writer and editor 

For more information, visit Switzerland tourist information and Appenzell Tourism

Read more about my travels in Switzerland:

In late September, Swiss dairy farmers parade their cows through the streets of the Appenzell village of Stein. ©Laurel Kallenbach

In late September, Swiss dairy farmers parade their cows through the streets of the Appenzell village of Stein. ©Laurel Kallenbach


St. Julien Hotel: A Green Sanctuary in the Heart of Boulder

In downtown Boulder, the St. Julien Hotel has many eco-friendly features. (all photos courtesy St. Julien)

In downtown Boulder, the St. Julien Hotel has many eco-friendly features. (all photos courtesy St. Julien Hotel)

It’s hip, it’s luxurious, and it’s green. The St. Julien Hotel & Spa, one of Boulder, Colorado’s downtown hubs has awesome ambiance, live music in the lobby or outdoors almost every night, and a fantastic bar and restaurant (Jill’s).

Since the hotel was built five years ago on a long-vacant lot at the corner of Ninth Street and Canyon, I’ve been going there for happy hour and music, but recently my husband and I visited overnight. (Staying in a hotel in your own town feels like a decadent treat!)

Mountain Ambiance, Indoors and Out

Our luxurious King-size Flatiron-view room was decorated in sleek urban lines with décor that picks up on the mountains’ color palate: browns, golds, slate, rusty red, and tan.

The St. Julien's rooms are sleek but earthy, and many of them feature glorious views of the Flatirons.

The St. Julien’s rooms are sleek but earthy, and many of them feature glorious views of Boulder’s Flatirons.

In case you didn’t know, the Flatirons (diagonally oriented stone outcroppings) are to Boulder what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris, the Pyramids to Cairo, and the Statue of Liberty to New York City.

Our room’s french doors opened up to a completely unobstructed view of those glorious Flatirons. If you happen to check in after dark, you’ll still feel the Flatirons’ presence, thanks to the large photograph of them in the room. The photo is almost exactly to scale as what you’ll see the next morning when your throw open the curtains in the morning. (After a night snuggled between layers of down on the extremely comfy four-poster bed.)

Stone surfaces in the bathroom recall the Flatirons outdoors.

Stone surfaces in the bathroom recall the Flatirons outdoors.

The stone walls and floor in the bathrooms also echo the Boulder landscape. Organic coffee and fair-trade tea were just luxurious finishing touches.

St. Julien’s Green Stuff (some of it anyway):

  • The elegant, onsite Jill’s Restaurant sources local organic food and beverages when appropriate.
  • Housekeeping uses green cleaning products
  • No-VOC paint
  • Hotel gardens and lawns are pesticide free
  • The St. Julien provides cruiser bicycles to guests free of charge. (Totally cool! There are so many fun places to cycle near the hotel, including the Boulder Creek Path.)
  • Employees get an Eco-Pass for free public transportation.
  • The spa utilizes cruelty-free products not tested on animals.
  • The hotel uses integrated pest management instead of poisons on weeds, insects, birds, pigeons or rodents.
  • Business cards, marketing materials, etc. are printed on recycled paper with soy-based inks
  • The hotel donates linens, towels and its opened shampoo and conditioner bottles to the local homeless shelter.
  • The hotel contributes a percentage of sales to the Prairie Dog Coalition. (Prairie dogs are a huge bone of contention in this neck of the woods. Some people want them eradicated from the face of the earth.)
  • Rooms are lit with energy-efficient CFL bulbs.

    A waterfall in a hot tub in the spa.

    A waterfall in a hot tub in the spa.

  • Motion sensors control lighting in low-activity areas.
  • The laundry utilizes cold-water wash cycles to save natural gas and extra spin cycles to reduce drying times.
  • The hotel recycles paper, newspaper, cardboard, commingled plastic, glass, metal containers. It also composts food products and waste.
  • Single-steam recycling bins are available in every guest room.
  • Compostable food and beverage products (to-go containers, straws, etc.)
  • Reusable hand towels in public restrooms to cut paper usage.
  • Paper keycards to reduce the amount of PVC plastic reaching landfill.
  • Low-flow toilets are installed in both the public areas and guest rooms.

Laurel Kallenbach, freelance writer and editor

Jill's Restaurant serves local, seasonal fare with flair.

Jill’s Restaurant serves local, seasonal fare with flair.