Sleep in a Sustainable Hotel in Mesa Verde National Park

From our balcony at the Far View Lodge inside Mesa Verde National Park, Ken and I watched wild horses graze around the clusters of rooms at sunset. It made for a memorable ending to a day of exploring the park’s unparalleled Ancestral Puebloan ruins.

Far View Lodge was eco-renovated to be energy- and water-efficient and to reduce waste—and its modest but comfy rooms offer glorious views of the park. In true National Park style, there are no nightclubs or in-room TVs, and outdoor lights are kept to a minimum. I’m happy to report that during our stay, we inhaled cool night air spiced by the scent of sagebrush and gazed at the vast universe of stars while serenaded by a coyote chorus in the distance.

The lobby at the Far View Lodge in Mesa Verde National Park

Aramark, the concession company that operates Far View Lodge and Mesa Verde’s infrastructure in general (tours, hospitality services, waste disposal, restrooms, and non-Park Service staff), has a fairly comprehensive enviro-plan (called PlanetEVERgreen), which is necessary to deal with the many housands of visitors who visit the park annually.

Among Aramark’s initiatives are:

  • recycling program (paper, glass, plastic, metals)
  • waste reduction
  • water and energy conservation
  • ecofriendly cleaning supplies
  • landscape-conscious construction (to reduce damage to the fragile ecosystems, to blend into the natural view, and to minimize light and noise pollution)
  • bi-fuel trucks and electric carts
  • integrated pest management (IPM) with a nontoxic approach to dealing with insects and rodents
  • sustainable and organic foods, including shade-grown Fair Trade-certified coffee.

Metate Room Restaurant

The Far View Lodge has a wonderful, though slightly pricey, restaurant on premises. Ancient meets contemporary in the Metate Room’s menu. The chef has created dishes that blend regional, sustainable, and organic fare with Ancestral Puebloan traditions. The result was a sumptuous dinner that started with a crisp and tangy house salad topped with black beans and corn and a chopotle-maple vinaigrette. My husband sampled the Corn-and-Nut-Crusted Rocky Mountain Trout served with Anasazi beans and sautéed veggies from a local farm. I opted for the Elk Tenderloin with local chokecherry demi-glace.

Fine, Native American-inspired dining is available at the Metate Room in Mesa Verde National Park.

The Metate Room offers a lovely atmosphere decorated with Navajo weaving, pottery and baskets. Native flute music played softly in the background. I know it’s kind of clichéd, but the wooden flute just sounds right in a place like Mesa Verde where you know you’re looking out the window at the same vistas that the Ancestral Puebloans beheld.

Laurel Kallenbach, freelance writer and editor

Read more about my travels in America’s national parks and monuments:

Mesa Verde: An Archaeological Pilgrimage

Cliff Palace in Mesa Verde

Mesa Verde National Park in southwestern Colorado (near Four Corners) ranked Number 1 on my destination list after I first visited its intriguing, mysterious cliff dwellings at age five. I credit my fascination with archaeology to this park. A love for all things ancient has become one of my lifelong passions.

My childhood sense of adventure was kindled by climbing log ladders to reach Mesa Verde’s cliff dwellings—built by the Anasazi people, as they were called when I was a kid. (Today they’re called Ancestral Pueblo people because they were the forebears of the Pueblo tribes that now live in Arizona and New Mexico.) Hearing stories about Anasazi ceremonial, underground, circular rooms, called kivas, sparked my imagination.

Four decades later, Mesa Verde continues to enchant me. I’ve take archaeological pilgrimages there four times since my parents first brought me. Over the years, I’ve never tired of hiking southwest Colorado’s desert landscape or pondering the archaeological remnants of the Anasazi culture, which thrived in the area’s canyons and high plateaus from about 600 to 1300 A.D.

Today, the park protects over 4,000 known archeological sites, including 600 cliff dwellings—the most notable and best preserved in the United States. Cliff Palace is the most visited, and it’s exciting because you can see it from a distance before you hike down to explore it.

Ranger Interpretation Adds Dimension

Park ranger Tim McNeil describes how life might have been for the cliff-dwelling inhabitants of Balcony House.

Most of Mesa Verde’s cliff dwellings are open only when you’re guided by a ranger. You need to buy a $3 reserved ticket in advance at the Far View Visitor Center or Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum, but it’s well worth the extra cost. The rangers who led my husband and I through the beautiful dwellings were fountains of knowledge—and they helped bring the ruins to life.

You don’t need to know that little windowed niches tucked under the cliffs were for storing corn and beans to appreciate the sandy geometry of the architecture or the permanence of stone. Still, it’s nice to know the function of towers, “middens” or garbage dumps, or about the spiritual significance of the sipapu, a small hole in the floor of the circular kiva. (The sipapu is the symbol of the Place of Emergence, where humans entered through the earth world from the spirit world.)


Ladders lead up the cliff to Balcony House in Mesa Verde.

Balcony House

To visit the Balcony House, you climb log ladders up a cliff, scramble through Balcony House’s narrow passageway just as the ancients who lived here a millennia ago did. Four decades after I first visited, Balcony House’s tunnel is a tight squeeze for me—yet Mesa Verde continues to charm me. Ranger Tim McNeil described the Ancestral Puebloan diet, which relied heavily on piñon nuts and “The Three Sisters”: corn, beans and squash, which are not only staples, but grow symbiotically.

Looking at thousand-year-old beams and rooms gives me a different perspective—of how short a time we have to live, and how many wonderful antiquities there are to explore.

For details on Mesa Verde, see Visit Mesa Verde.  For information on the region, visit Mesa Verde Country.

—Laurel Kallenbach, freelance writer

Read more about my travels in America’s national parks and monuments:

A reconstructed ceremonial kiva at Mesa Verde.

Digging into the Past at Crow Canyon

If, like me, you dream of being a real-life Indiana Jones, grab your fedora and trowel and head to Crow Canyon Archaeological Center just outside Cortez. This research and educational organization gives you hands-on experience—for a day or week—with real archaeologists at actual dig sites. Crow Canyon is one of the only scientific groups currently excavating in the Mesa Verde region.

Archaeologists use a screen and toothbrush to wash dirt from artifacts they find while digging.

I loved going into the archaeology lab to see how artifacts are washed, categorized and finally numbered. It’s exacting work—but it seems so important in helping piece together time.

Ken and I also got to visit a current Crow Canyon archaeological site. Archaeologists excavate trenches (2 feet wide by 10 or 15 feet long) and once they’ve recorded their finds, they refill the trench with the dirt they removed.

Crow Canyon offers several experiential programs:

  • Day Tours: You’ll visit an excavation site and go behind the scenes at Crow Canyon’s archaeological lab where you’ll see ancient artifacts and visit an ongoing archaeological excavation. Day tours (8:30 to 4:30) are held on Wednesdays and Thursdays from May through September. Lunch is included. Adults: $55; children (ages 10 to 17): $30.

    Archaeologist Grant Coffey points out layers in a trench excavation.

  • Adult Archaeology Research Week: Join a professional archaeological team and help uncover the past. You’ll learn to dig for and identify artifacts you find. In the lab, you’ll wash and catalog pottery and stone tools. All meals, lodging and transportation to dig sites included: $1,475 per person.
  • Family Archaeology Week: Plan your next family vacation around an Ancestral Pueblo archaeology adventure. Adults: $1,520; children (ages 10 to 17): $1,125.

For dates and information on Crow Canyon, contact 800-422-8975.

Laurel Kallenbach, freelance writer and editor

One of the buildings at the Crow Canyon Archaeological Center

Stories from Ute Mountain Tribal Park

The beautiful mesas and canyons of the Ute Mountain Ute Tribal Park in southwest Colorado have many secrets to tell.

The red rocks and blue skies in the Ute Mountain Ute Tribal Park are spectacular.

The red rocks, blue skies and yellow rabbitbrush in the Ute Mountain Ute Tribal Park are spectacular.

There’s the ancient epic of primordial oceans creating the flat sedimentary stone that makes up this gorgeous country. (You can still find fossilized shells and bones of sea creatures here in this now-dry country.)

There’s the story of burnished-gold chamisa (also called rabbitbrush) shining in the Indian-summer light of early October. And the sagebrush, cacti, yucca and cottonwoods (and invasive, nonnative tamarisks) growing along the Mancos River. And the cry of a hawk or crow echoing through the canyon.

There’s the mystery of Ancestral Puebloan pottery sherds, petroglyphs and cliff dwellings found abundantly throughout the park, which is on the Ute Mountain Reservation.

And there are the stories that our Ute guide, Marshall Deer, told about the distant and recent past.

Tourism That Supports Utes

Before I get to that, though, there’s also the tourism tale. A visit to Ute Mountain Ute Tribal Park is a great example of sustainable tourism.

Why sustainable? When tourism dollars go into the pockets of outsiders, foreign investors or far-away corporate owners, the money doesn’t help the local economy. The best types of “ecotourism” aren’t just environmentally friendly, they’re beneficial to locals or indigenous people.

Marshall Deer explains the meaning in a prehistoric petroglyph.

Marshall Deer explains the possible meaning of the symbols in this prehistoric petroglyph.

To experience the cliff dwelling ruins, ancient rock art and gorgeous scenery at Ute Mountain Ute Tribal Park, you sign onto a half-day or full-day tour led by a tribal member. The proceeds help support the Utes, and leading tours through this inspiring country seems a far better way to make a living than working at the casino in the nearby town of Towaoc.

How the West Was Lost

While driving and hiking through the Ute Tribal Park, I listened carefully to Marshall’s stories. He grew up on the Rez, attended college in Gunnison, Colorado, and worked on regional archaeological digs. He had many insights to share, ranging from an explanation of how to “read” a wall of ancient petroglyphs depicting the origin of the world to stories of the Wetherills, the family of ranchers who explored the ruins in the Mesa Verde National Park area a century ago.

(John Wetherill was known as the “human plumb-bob” because he dangled on a rope as his brothers lowered him over the side of cliffs to access the 700-year-old ruins.)

The Ancestral Puebloan ruins in the Tribal Park are more than 700 years old.

The Ancestral Puebloan ruins in the Tribal Park are about 700 years old.

There were sadder sagas too: how the U.S. Army forced the Utes out of the mountains (where they lived in summer) and into the desert mesas (their winter homes). And the tragic tale of how the Utes hid their children in the cliff dwellings from U.S. soldiers who came to forcibly remove children from their parents to take them to boarding school. There, they’d cut the children’s hair, make them wear European clothes, forbid them to speak their language, and separate them from their spiritual and cultural heritage.

(Normally, the Utes avoided Ancestral Puebloan (or “Anasazi”) sites because the Utes aren’t the descendents of those prehistoric people, who lived in the region until the mid-1200s. Modern Puebloan tribes include the Hopis and Zunis.)

I learned about the Ghost Dance, a tribal ritual performed to wash away the evil in a place. It was most done in hope of ridding the land of European oppressors. I also witnessed protest art that the Utes painted on rocks during the 1960s and 1970s.

Language and Freedom

Marshall also said something that I’ve been mulling for weeks. I asked whether young people on the Rez still speak Ute, and he said many did. He also mentioned that less than half the Ute language is written down; it’s mostly passed along orally. He made the case that if language isn’t written, then outsiders can’t use it against its speakers.

This is one reason, he said, that some Native Americans are people of few words, at least in the company of non-Natives. Marshall explained that by withholding knowledge—even by withholding their words—the Utes feel they protect themselves against cultural “invasion.”

Pottery sherds are everywhere. You're allowed to look but not to remove them from the place you found them..

Pottery sherds are everywhere. You’re allowed to look but not to remove them from the place you found them.

“They can take away our hair, our traditions, but if we withhold our language, it can’t be taken away from us,” Marshall said.

As a woman of words, I’m sad that whole cultures are so threatened that they must to hide their words in the name of self-preservation, yet that is the case in many places around the world.

Part of me is happy, however, that some people realize that language is power, that it’s identity, that it’s the marrow of our Selves.

I’m also profoundly grateful that the Utes revere and preserve their Tribal Park land and that they’re willing to share it—and their stories, or at least bits of them—with us outsiders.

If you’d like, leave a comment about how language affects who you are or how it shapes your identity. Do you have a secret language all your own? And how does keeping it private help you?

Laurel Kallenbach, writer and editor

In the Ute Tribal Park, you climb ladders and hike to prehistoric Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings.

In the Ute Tribal Park, you climb ladders and hike to prehistoric Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings. It’s customary to thank the ancestors for your visit.